Grave Samoun (Gravlax)

Gravlax, "grave salmon" - Salt & sugar cured salmon

I love gravlax, and despite a grave ;) lack of documentation, I know and understand it to be medieval in origin and will therefore share my version with you.

To avoid argument I won't specify languages, but the Germanic roots for the word Gravlax- grav and lax -mean literally dug or grave salmon. All the Scandinavian languages share this etymology.I cannot seem to find any actual documentation or sources to verify the origins/ historical record of gravlax, despite "everyone" knowing for sure that it has its roots in medieval Scandinavia.  Supposedly there is some record going back to medieval, perhaps even early viking periods, of salmon being preserved by salting it and burying it just above the high tide line, allowing it to salt cure and ferment.  I will have to take some trips to the place that no one under 30 knows about anymore- the library- to find legitimate documentation of medieval gravlax.

The curing of fish with salt and sugar, and the use of dill and consumption of alcohol with gravlax are well documented and definite common knowledge.  (Interesting note: dill's name is Anethum graveolens which could lead one to speculate that perhaps there is no coincidence that dill and gravlax are associated, perhaps one actually got its name from the other... just for fun.)

There is no period recipe available for me to analyze.  Perhaps I will find one in my search for documentation, or at least another for curing fish with salt and or sugar.  Instead I shall provide a brief discussion of modern varieties of gravlax.

The elusive gravlax salmon in its natural habitat-
 some items it is commonly paired with, dill, pumpernickel bread &
a mustard sauce.  This particular gravlax can be attributed to
the high brow queen of Food Network, Ina Garten.
I chose it because of the items it is with.

I shall make a distinction here to clarify for any who may wonder or be unclear, lox and gravlax- are not the same. Similar, but not the same.  I should think that based on the etymology of the word lox, it may be used to refer to any salmon, particularly a cold cured thin sliced variety, so I will not say that using lox to refer to gravlax is patently incorrect. I will say that there is a distinction between the two, and that lox is most commonly used in reference to salmon of the cold smoked variety, while gravlax very specifically refers to salmon which has been cured with salt and sugar, possibly even being slightly fermented (though not commonly so in modern times.) I suppose that a person could in fact make a smoked gravlax, or further cure a lox with salt and sugar.  I would find it to be a detriment to the former and and a kindness to the latter, though I do enjoy both.

It is not uncommon for contemporary recipes to use spirits in the making of gravlax.  Probably because, A.) it is no longer fermented, and this adds an element of fermentation, and B.) it is commonly eaten in its native land with aquavit or vodka, thus it is an associated flavor.  I found that tequila, especially if you are using limes in the cure, is quite nice.  Nobody is getting drunk off the salmon either,it is just a tiny bit for flavor.
Variations of the recipe go from almost pure salt to almost pure sugar. My preference leans  a little to the sugar side, but many are close to a 1 to 1.  Depending on the time and method of the cure, I find this to be far too dominated by the salt.  Almost all versions have dill, some just a bit, some smother it- while I enjoy the flavor it adds, I find that a bit less dill, integrated well into the cure mixture is best- and serving it with dill means you don't have to miss that flavor at all anyway.  Some even like to incorporate other herbs that are related to dill, such as fennel. A large number of versions use brown sugar in the cure.  I suppose this may be a bit more period in flavor.  I am quite happy using white sugar, though I think a person wanting to be closer to period could use sucanat in a higher proportion instead.
Methods for the actual curing process vary as well.  Some work with whole sides skin on, others remove the skin, some use skinned and portioned fillets.  Some require pressing between boards some wrap in foil, some in plastic.  I have even considered a method employing cheesecloth and a cooling rack.  The key is to allow the cure to draw water from the fish and to permeate the fish.  I find that whole skinned sides do this best, and plastic wrap is fine, there is no need to drain the liquid away, because of our old friend osmosis.  The fish expels water trying to reach an equilibrium with the salt outside of it and it also takes in salt and sugar for the same purpose.  If you have enough cure on the fish, it will cure whether you drain it or not.  The less cure you use, the more moist the fish will be, and the more time you give it, the more even the moisture will be in the fish.  I also find that the final product is nicer and easier to cut and serve with a more cured, skinless fillet.
My recipe checks out as being pretty authentic, many of them have the same sugar salt ratio, though I doubt many use citrus like I do.

Now that I have blogged you ear off,

My Recipe:

Gravlax:

1 whole fresh salmon side (3-4 lb), skinned, boned

2 c white sugar 

1 c kosher salt 

zest and juice of 1 lime

zest and 1/2 the juice of 1 lemon

1/4 c chopped fresh dill fronds 

Optional:

1/4 c minced chives 

1/2 c brown sugar 

1/2 oz tequila, gin, or fennel/anise liquor

2 Tbsp chopped fresh tarragon 

Procedure:

1. Make sure to clean the salmon of all pin bones and any random scales, rinse and pat dry
2. In a bowl mix together your sugar and salt, add chopped herbs (including onions) and zest. 
3. Sprinkle in citrus juice (and liquor), mix together so you have a consistency like slightly damp sand.
4. Dig an 8 inch deep 1 x 2 foot hole in your backyard.... Just Kidding! Seeing if you're awake.
5. Lay salmon out flat on plastic wrap, long enough to go under and completely back over it lengthwise.  Pack about half of the cure mixture around the exposed side of the salmon. 
6. Fold the plastic wrap over the salmon, and gently flip the salmon to its other side.  Pull back the plastic wrap from the top side.  Pack the rest of the cure around the exposed side of the salmon, and put the wrap back over top.
7. You should now have the salmon completely surrounded by cure mixture, with a long piece of plastic wrap going completely underneath it and coming back completely over the top. 
8. Fold the ends of the wrap together and fold up, tuck the top part of the wrap to the sides of the salmon, pushing any loose cure tight to the salmon.  Fold the bottom side of the wrap tightly up over the sides. 
9. Now take another piece of wrap as long as the fist and wrap the salmon gain, starting from the opposite end.   
10. Now take the roll and begin wrapping from the side.  If it is wide enough to cover the whole fillet, 2 or 3 wraps should do,tuck the ends tightly. If not, start at one end, wrap it tightly and wrap around from the side going down the length of the fish,like wrapping grip tape on a bat or hockey stick.  when you get to the end tuck it tightly and go back down.    
11. You should now have a plastic wrapped salmon mummy.  Put it in the refrigerator on a tray or pan as flat as possible.  Turn over every 12 hours.  
12. This method will give you a nice gravlax in 24 hours if you need it, if you give it the full 48 it evens out the cure a little more.
13. When it has firmed up nicely and the cure has become very liquidy, it is done.  Remove the wrap.  If you are going to use it soon, this cure can be used again, just dry it a bit in a warm oven and add about another cup of 2-1 sugar-salt and a bit more dill.  Rinse and pat the salmon dry. slice thin at an angle, perpendicular to the length of the fillet.  Serve.

NOTES:

• Skinning salmon-  To skin salmon- get a large clean board, set it up to the left edge of your work surface(right if you are sinister.) An 8" straight sharp kitchen knife will do just fine, no special knife needed. I like my 10" chef knife for it. Lay the salmon side skin side down, with the narrow tail end to your left (again right for lefties.) I like to run a finger along the edges, loosening the skin from the flesh. About 2 or 3 inches from the tail end (more if it is really narrow) cut into the salmon at about a 40 degree angle- toward the head end (sharp part of blade angled to your right, just until you touch the skin.)  With your off hand, grip the tail of the fillet, and laying the knife almost flat to the board, and barely moving the knife much, pull away and downward on the tail, allowing the knife to skim along the skin.  The less you move the knife the better you will do.  If you feel the knife dig in or start to grate a bit, stop, and re-position your knife so it is angled between the skin and flesh.  If you have rough spots, you can trim them carefully with a filet or boning knife. Carefully rinse and pat the salmon dry, being sure to remove any excess dark fatty parts and any scales.

• Pin Bones- The spine of the salmon runs a few inches below its dorsal surface. Thin sharp bones protrude from it into the fleshy side of the fish.  When a side is cut from the salmon, these tiny sharp bones are left in the meat and must be removed.  You will want boning or needle nose pliers, fingers work, but not well on the tough ones.  lay you hand flat against the inner dorsal side of the fillet. (That is the thicker side from the back not the belly, and the inside, not the skin side.) Starting from the head end feel the fish, moving at a slight angle inward and toward the tail. you should feel them catch as you rub over it. always check, even if it is supposed to be done for you. I like to run my fingers over the filet a few times just to check when I think it is done.  The bones should be spaced very regularly along the fillet, lessening toward the tail.  When you find one- press on either side of it with fingers of your off hand ad grip if with the pliers with your strong hand. Pull firmly toward the back of the fish and slightly up. Get them all.
• What type of salmon?- Do not waste expensive salmon. If you want a very special gravlax and you plan to tweak the recipe just so, a special wild salmon is great.  I suggest just using a nice farm raised, atlantic, or scottish salmon, or what ever happens to be the best value in your area.  Wild salmon has a nice color and richer flavor, but in curing it you can lose some of that difference.  So I guess the answer, in short, is use what you like, don't feel any need to get 'special' salmon for gravlax, so long as it is fresh, clean and safe enough.
• Ingredient options- 
• Sugar- substitute 3 c sucanat or possibly 1 1/2 c honey for a more period flavor.  If you use honey, minimize the amount of liquid you add to the cure.  If you use brown sugar, you can sub it for an equivalent amount of white sugar or just add it.  You also could use all brown sugar.
• Salt -Do Not Use table salt.  Pickling salt is ok, but use a little less.  We want a cup of kosher salt. That is about 6 oz by weight, so you want the same weight of other salt. Probably 3/4 c pickling salt, and about (just over) 1/2 c of table salt.  Avoid iodized salt.  It has a tendency to do odd things and add odd flavors to cures.  If you must use a table type salt, just make sure you don't use too much. weigh it if you can, otherwise you have to estimate density by size of grains. 
• Citrus- roll them firmly on aboard before zesting.  This makes them juice better and releases the essential oils in the zest. You want color in the zest, not white.  juice your lime, but you wont want all the juice from the lemon. Save half of it for with the gravlax later.
• Dill- mix it in the cure. Don't just cram it around the outside and waste it. You don't need the whole bunch.  Save the remaining fronds for serving the gravlax. you can throw all the stems in the cure if you want.  If you have to use dry, use a little less than 1/4 c. and either put it on the fish before the cure, or let it soak in the booze or citrus juice a bit first.
• Chives- onion is also a classic flavor with gravlax. a little in the cure is kind nice. You can substitute green onions (scallions), shallots or minced red or sweet onion.
• Booze- a little bit of a liquor with a distinctive matching flavor.  tequila is nice, gin gives that juniper berry flavor, and sambucca, Pernod, or ouzo have a nice compliment to dill.
• tarragon- a nice flavor, you could sub for the dill if you like, probably not worth adding if you are using one of the fennel flavored liquors, as it would be lost.  It might be lost behind gin as well.
• Reusing the cure- you can do that. Either freeze it or use it right away.  You can add a bit more sugar salt mixture and dry it out in a warm oven.  Add a little more dill before you use it. 
• How do you eat it? - serve it with any classic Scandinavian dishes.  It is commonly eaten with fresh dill, thin sliced red onions, capers, pumpernickel bread, bagels and cream cheese, with a shot of vodka, with mustard sauce (e.g. dijon with a little oil and vinegar, sugar and dill), cream sauces like horseradish cream or dill cream, I would recommend something like a benedictine with dill (benedictine is cream cheese based dip or spread with cucumber and onion.)  I have found that it goes well with my goat cheese and herb spread (goat and cream cheese with garlic and parsley.) I'm thinking it would make a great tea sandwich on a dark rye with dill cream cheese (or goat cheese), cucumber, capers and minced onion... I think that olives and red peppers are a good match as well.

Citations:

Photo of gravlax with mustard sauce is from FoodNetwork.com, Ina Garten's Barefoot Contessa page. http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/gravlax-with-mustard-sauce-recipe/index.html
I'm not really a fan, but the picture showed what I wanted to show.

The rest of the information I just pulled out of my... head.